Moret-sur-Loing: A Charming Day Trip From Paris

Of all the remarkable regions in France, Île-de-France has never been on the top of my list. Besides Paris, there wasn’t much that drew me to this region in the heart of the country. Yes, I know there are some beautiful châteaux in the area, but with no seaside or mountain range, this part of the country was somewhat lackluster to me. I also noticed I took fewer day trips here than when I lived in the south of France. Over the years, however, I’ve come to appreciate this region a little bit more and have enjoyed visiting smaller cities and towns like Provins and Chevreuse.

Something that piqued my interest in the region around France’s capital was discovering that many of my favorite impressionist and post-impressionist painters were inspired by its idyllic towns and countryside. I realized I did not have to take a trip to Provence to feel like I was visiting a real-life painting; I could use my transit card and be in one of these towns in an hour.

While researching day trips from Paris, my Frenchie, who is also an art aficionado, found a tourism website all about these historic spots in Ile-de-France and Normandie, which is useful when planning an art-inspired itinerary. It of course mentions Monet’s garden in Giverny, but it also shares a few other hidden gems such as the focus of this post, Moret-sur-Loing, a town famed for its connection to painter, Alfred Sisley.

Getting to Moret by Train

On a crisp November afternoon, we boarded a train in Paris and in about an hour we arrived in the painterly town of Moret-sur-Loing. From Gare de Lyon, you can take a regional train like the TER or a Transillien. If you are a Francilien (resident of Ile-de-France) the fare is included in your Navigo pass subscription (Zones 1-5). From the train station in Moret-sur-Loing, it is about a 20 minute walk or a quick bus ride into town. Once you reach downtown, many of the sights are within walking distance.

Porte de Samois

The first sight you notice when walking into town is a gorgeous medieval tower with an archway known as the Porte de Samois. This structure from the 12th Century actually has a twin, the Porte de Bourgogne at the end of the street, just before the scenic bridge.

Napoleon in Moret

After passing under la Porte de Samois, there is a lovely square with a restaurant, which I will talk about later, and some half-timbered houses. If you look to your left when walking down rue Grande towards the river, you will see a small half-timbered house with a plaque under a window that mentions that Napoleon I spent the night there after returning from his exile on the island of Elba, before going back to Paris during his “100 days.”

Renaissance Gallery

Before rushing to the picturesque bridge, walk though the passage on your right by the town hall to discover a lovely courtyard with an impressive limestone building known as la galerie de la maison Chabouillé also known as la façade François Ier. The gallery was built for Nicolas Chabouillé, a financial officer of King François I in 1527 and boasts detailed engravings characteristic of the Renaissance.

Porte de Bourgogne, Mills, and Waterside Views

At the end of the main street, you will see the Porte de Bourgogne. After passing through the archway, you’ll find yourself at the foot of the town’s bridge and you will feel like you just stepped back in time. From the cobblestone bridge, you can admire little islands, views of the town’s church, a old mill, and birds swimming in the Loing river.

The mill pictured below was once used for different purposes throughout the ages; first, it was part of a tannery, then it was a sawmill, and finally a flour mill. One of the other buildings of the mill is now home to a local candy museum.

You can also go down to the park on the Rives du Loing to see the town from another perspective. I recommend crossing the bridge and going to the Pré de Pins park to have a nice panoramic view of the bridge and town. This view is also the subject of some of Sisley’s en plein air paintings. I imagine the town is even lovelier in the summer when everything is green, however, it is still quite beautiful in the late autumn, especially when the sun is setting.

Other sights to see in Moret

The town of Moret pays homage to Sisley who was not successful during his lifetime. You can see Sisley’s home at 19 Rue Montmartre where he lived until his death in 1899.

Not far from the late painter’s home is a donjon, which is a false friend in French because it means “keep” and not “dungeon. ” The keep is all that remains of a royal castle that was once encircled by a medieval wall.

You can also admire the church Notre-Dame de la Nativité and its gargoyles.

A Restaurant with a View

Before heading back to Paris, we stopped to have a little drink and an afternoon snack at the half-timbered restaurant La Maison des Arts which faces Place de l’Hôtel de Ville. We sat upstairs by the window and people-watched while we had crepes and sipped our first mulled wine of the season. The staff was friendly and the food was made with care, so I would happily dine there again.

Bonus things to do in Moret-sur-Loing

Because we visited on a Sunday during the off-season, many things were closed, but that did not stop us from enjoying our day in Moret. However, if you are planning to visit during the spring or summer for a day or a weekend escape, you may want to consider adding these other activities to your itinerary:

• Le Point Sisley Museum – Reopening in April
• Try Sucre d’Orge a local barley sugar candy at the Boutique du Sucre d’Orge or learn about it in the nearby museum which is open May- October.
• Visit the Bicycle Museum – opening back up on February 6th this year.
• Get a breath of fresh air while walking on through the countryside hiking trails.
• Explore the region by boat with river and canal cruises.

Moret is an example of why there is so much to see in Île-de-France in addition to Paris. This spring, I would love to visit some more towns like Chatou and Auvers-sur-Oise.

As always, thank you so much for reading! As a full-time teacher, I haven’t been able to write blog posts as much as I would like, but I’m hoping to stay more consistent this year. However, I appreciate all of you who take the time to read these posts about my life and travels in France.

À la prochaine,

Camden